Wine Cellar Door

[Gary]

Just finished installing this window. Lead construction with 1/4" H on block areas with using 3/16" and mostly 1/8" H lead for detail. I delaminated the insulated glass and re-installed one panel behind the stained glass for support and a good thermal break. The wine cellar is refrigerated and a single layer of stained glass may not be as efficient. Also this allowed me to eliminate all supporting bars because the tempered glass is on the inside of the door when you shut the door the stained glass is supported 100%.

[jackiebkc]

Absolutely breathtaking!  Beautiful!  If you ever move you will have to take that door with you!   

[Gary]

If you ever move you will have to take that door with you!   

If I did the customer would probably call the police 

Thanks for your comments!

[educate86]

Oh -- so beautiful.  You should at least be invited for a wine tasting every now and then. 

[Grunt]

Gary, Stunning work as always.  I love it.

Steve

[wunderwerks]

This is just the prettiest thing. My brother has a wine cellar so I sent him your pictures to see if he'd like something similar. Of course, you know who'll be making it if he decides he wants one.

Cheryl

[GeorgianLady]

That s a very handsome door, Gary.

[lovesglass]

So very beautiful in it's simplicity.  Is there patina on the lead?

[Gary]

Thanks all for your comments.

Lovesglass,
Lead will become dark from cementing and polishing with a natural bristle brush (no patina). The more you work it the nicer it gets. Patina will dissolve the putty so you really shouldn't.

[lovesglass]

I didn't know that.  (about dissolving the putty.)  I want to start doing lead, but have not made the leap.  I always have trouble with the lead fitting on my glass when I use it to frame a small panel. 

[AglassAct]

Very beautiful.

[Hartache]

I didn't know that.  (about dissolving the putty.)  I want to start doing lead, but have not made the leap.  I always have trouble with the lead fitting on my glass when I use it to frame a small panel. 

If the lead doesn't fit on the glass, you may be using the wrong lead.  There is some lead with a narrow channel that doesn't fit well on regular stained glass.  It's okay for bevels and some glass, but difficult for other glass.

Rebecca

[lovesglass]

When I am ready to order more lead, I'll ask for help so that I get the right size.  I was fighting with it to widen the channel just the other day to put on the lily panel.

[e hilton]

I delaminated the insulated glass

I hope that's a case of incorrect terminology.  Did you really break the vacuum seal on the glass unit and just use one piece of clear glass?

[Gary]

I delaminated the insulated glass

I hope that's a case of incorrect terminology.  Did you really break the vacuum seal on the glass unit and just use one piece of clear glass?

Yes I did. There wasn't room for both the I/G and stained glass. I know some will argue this but I have explained once before that the lead in a stained glass (leaded) window has metallic volume that picks up the temperature of the side it faces and actually neutralizes the effect of cooling from the plate glass side. The same principle that the air between panes of plate glass creates a neutralizing effect. Which way is more efficient may still be a debate but the bottom line is I had no other option other than replacing the door.
You would be amazed on the lack of temperature transmission though a double glazed unit like this.
Before the stained glass if you touched the glass you felt it to be cool. With the stained glass installed it isn't as cool to the touch , my guess is again the volume of lead that absorbs the inside room temperature and holds it in place. The strength of the glass behind the stained glass is also important to be in place if the door was ever slammed shut. This also takes way the need for reinforcement bars but I must stress your cutting has to be exact so not to allow any space between the glass edges and lead. If you have any floating areas or looses spaces eventually the window will try to settle down and possibly sag. My windows are cut to tolerances of less than a sheet of paper. This with round crowned lead and proper shimming I have complete confidence the window will last a very long time where it is.

[annabelle]

Beautiful door, Gary!  annabelle

[Audrey]

There is nothing left to say.
 

[Hartache]

Yes I did. There wasn't room for both the I/G and stained glass. I know some will argue this but I have explained once before that the lead in a stained glass (leaded) window has metallic volume that picks up the temperature of the side it faces and actually neutralizes the effect of cooling from the plate glass side. The same principle that the air between panes of plate glass creates a neutralizing effect. Which way is more efficient may still be a debate but the bottom line is I had no other option other than replacing the door.
You would be amazed on the lack of temperature transmission though a double glazed unit like this.
Before the stained glass if you touched the glass you felt it to be cool. With the stained glass installed it isn't as cool to the touch , my guess is again the volume of lead that absorbs the inside room temperature and holds it in place. The strength of the glass behind the stained glass is also important to be in place if the door was ever slammed shut. This also takes way the need for reinforcement bars but I must stress your cutting has to be exact so not to allow any space between the glass edges and lead. If you have any floating areas or looses spaces eventually the window will try to settle down and possibly sag. My windows are cut to tolerances of less than a sheet of paper. This with round crowned lead and proper shimming I have complete confidence the window will last a very long time where it is.

I have to say that this is backwards.  The air between the two pieces of glass is a POOR conductor of heat and that is what makes an insulated unit insulate.  Stained glass, on the other hand is a VERY GOOD conductor of heat because of the lead.  So the two are opposites.  The stained glass feels warm because it has heat from the room, but it doesn't "hold it in place."  It transmits it to the single pane of glass.  A unit with a single pane of glass and stained glass is NOT a good insulator at all.  A unit with two panes of glass and an air space between is a good insulator.  The larger the air space, the better the insulation.

Rebecca

[Enchanted]

Beautiful door!  (The mechanics are beyond me - but I love the stained glass!)

[Gary]

Yes I did. There wasn't room for both the I/G and stained glass. I know some will argue this but I have explained once before that the lead in a stained glass (leaded) window has metallic volume that picks up the temperature of the side it faces and actually neutralizes the effect of cooling from the plate glass side. The same principle that the air between panes of plate glass creates a neutralizing effect. Which way is more efficient may still be a debate but the bottom line is I had no other option other than replacing the door.
You would be amazed on the lack of temperature transmission though a double glazed unit like this.
Before the stained glass if you touched the glass you felt it to be cool. With the stained glass installed it isn't as cool to the touch , my guess is again the volume of lead that absorbs the inside room temperature and holds it in place. The strength of the glass behind the stained glass is also important to be in place if the door was ever slammed shut. This also takes way the need for reinforcement bars but I must stress your cutting has to be exact so not to allow any space between the glass edges and lead. If you have any floating areas or looses spaces eventually the window will try to settle down and possibly sag. My windows are cut to tolerances of less than a sheet of paper. This with round crowned lead and proper shimming I have complete confidence the window will last a very long time where it is.

I have to say that this is backwards.  The air between the two pieces of glass is a POOR conductor of heat and that is what makes an insulated unit insulate.  Stained glass, on the other hand is a VERY GOOD conductor of heat because of the lead.  So the two are opposites.  The stained glass feels warm because it has heat from the room, but it doesn't "hold it in place."  It transmits it to the single pane of glass.  A unit with a single pane of glass and stained glass is NOT a good insulator at all.  A unit with two panes of glass and an air space between is a good insulator.  The larger the air space, the better the insulation.

Rebecca

The larger the air space the longer the transition time.
Try this...

Outside is 40 degrees and inside is 70 degrees. The air space between the two layers of glass will be what?
55 degrees right?

So if you increase the air (volume) it still will average out to 55 degrees right? Still with me?

Now make that space hold less air, what do you get? If you guessed 55 degrees you are right! The difference in more volume of air is if the temperature drops to 30 degrees outside it will take the air inside the unit to transition longer than a unit with less air. This would result in a longer holding time for the desired air inside because the trapped air takes longer to again transition. Eventually the air will come to the transition "median" temperature as the thinner unit but not as quick.
If you can grasp all of that you are doing good here.

Now... Take a leaded glass window that will acclimate to the inside temperature of the house. The lead in the window will absorb and hold the temperature more so than plain glass because metal conducts (holds) heat better than glass. The transition of heat from the front of the stained glass to the back will also be regulated by the lead itself and will in ways mimic what is going on in the insulated glass between the two panes I mentioned earlier.
A standard insulated glass unit will undoubtedly feel cooler to the touch presuming we are using the above temperature scenarios over stained glass layered over plate glass. The difference with stained glass over plate glass is that with sudden temperature changes the stained glass will change in temperature quicker than just plate glass but will retain the inside room temperatures better due to the metal factor involved. The same is true that the lead will absorb the cooling from the outside glass but again allow the thermal break or transition from the back of the stained glass to the front.

Bottom line is if the thermal break is that much different between the two glazing situations you will not notice it much or any if all. I do agree that to space the stained glass off the outside glass would further increase the overall thermal value of the installation but as I said earlier I am relying on the strength of the tempered glass for a stable backing.